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When I get up, I have a cup of coffee, surf the Internet, then do a half-hour run.
My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'
Surfing is one of the most joyful pursuits a human can take up. But there's no joy in a deadzone. If you've ever surfed in turds and medical waste you don't want to repeat the experience.
I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
A movie is kind of like being the captain of a ship, which is nice, but when I perform by myself it's just surfing on the water and nobody really knows what happens.
I haven't prepared as much as I would like to but it will be fun to get out there again. I have nothing left to prove in surfing but still have the desire to keep going.
I love my little Mac G4 computer and we just had Internet installed on the bus... we all have little Macs actually, there's four of us on the bus, and we all just sit there and surf the Internet!
If I leave my computer, I'm probably not going to get back for hours. If I take a few minutes to answer questions and go web surfing, then guilt kicks in and I get back to work.
I've been doing a lot of different cross-training and kickboxing and Capoeira and kite surfing, and I've just really been back to what I consider my original athletic self.
In order to keep surfing (getting-a-job avoidance) we just automatically got into hashish smuggling. Didn't even occur to us that something bad might happen.
I really think there's an evolution to the practice and the individual no matter what brings you in, whether it's wine and yoga or chocolate and yoga or surfing and yoga.
I started surfing at the age of 10, and then turned professional at the age of 16, which was right around the same time I took up the guitar. So, the surfing came first.
Trying to keep up with health advice can feel like surfing the Net for weather forecasts: what you find is always changing, often contradictory and rarely encouraging.
I've surfed once in the gulf. I wouldn't really call it surfing. It was like an ex-boyfriend pushing me into the waves or something. That was my limited experience.
I'm not surfing every day, so I'm not in that good of a shape, and when I paddle, I might get caught in the impact zone and get my world rocked pretty good.