Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

The purpose of revelation is to alter your experience.

Know the limitations of your mind, and then excel them.Know the limitations of your heart, and then surpass them.Know the limitations of your soul, and then transcend them.

I am but the reflection in your eyes, the effect of your expressions, and the sum of your praise and criticism.

The invisible carnage of the unf-ed wives and the children not being read to is just wafting out.

English culture is basically homosexual in the sense that the men only really care about other men.

I don't know how many good books I still have in me; I hope there are another four or five.

I see no marks of Wordsworths style of writing or style of thinking in my own work, yet Wordsworth is a constant presence when I write about human beings and their relations to the natural world.

It doesn't matter who scores. If you have an opportunity to score, you score.

I ask all Americans with a conscience to shun anything and everything to do with the murderous state of Georgia.

The books from which [children] learn must reflect movement and change and all of the infinite possibilities of minds at liberty.