Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

God is the creator, so for that human creativity is a work of Divine.

Then the hard, dry Spaniards came exploring through, greedy and realistic, and their greed was for gold or God. They collected souls as they collected jewels.

To us, family means putting your arms around each other and being there.

Color is for me the purest form of expression, the purest abstract reality.

... the Athenian lawmaker Solon decreed it a crime for any citizen to shrink from controversy.

Truth is scary. Truth has bad breath at times

I was very concerned about helping animals improve their situations. But that was out of love. It wasn't political or out of a belief that animals had rights.

I've said it once and I'll say it a a hundred times, I'm forty-four years old.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

We know how often in our lives through laziness and cowardice we give up the battle and try to hypnotise our minds into the belief that we are brave.