I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

Exercising underwater also creates tremendous benefits by challenging your body in ways you can't on dry land.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!

I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.

I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

The way I define happiness is being the creator of your experience, choosing to take pleasure in what you have, right now, regardless of the circumstances, while being the best you that you can be.

My black-headed black-eyed boy. I remember every day of you. How would I forget?

To make things 'perfectly clear' is reactionary and stupefying. The real is not perfectly clear.

But you are, you know, you were, the nearest thing to a real story to happen in my life

It's great to be able to pretend you're tough but funny at the same time.

I'd like there to be less refugees. I'd like all girls to go to school. That's what we need to be thinking about, and working on making our own families good and strong and our own kids happy.

Nature is with us if we can learn how to align with it and not break the basic laws that generate life.

And he says I have lousy timing

My natural orientation has never been among a community of writers, really. For some reason my social world has always been in the art world.

As long as you are passionate about your vision, you should keep moving forward.