My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

The greatest Americans have not been born yet they are waiting patiently for the past to die.

Don't descend to the lowest ebb.

We challenge one another to be funnier and smarter. ... It's the way friends make love to one another.

Raised during Reagan, suffered through Clinton

The Master and Margarita is my favorite. To me it’s the greatest exploration of the human imagination.

Culture itself is neither education nor law-making: it is an atmosphere and a heritage.

You don't have to be interesting. You have to be interested.

Birth is the scariest event of most peoples' lives. You have to feel safe enough in your own mind before you can remember your own birth.

She just dropped it and ran!!

I'm nervous about the prospects of an America that refuses to abide by its best conscience and its best lights and its best angels.