Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

Those who enter through the back door can expect to be shown out through the window

Every job is incredibly different, and I love it because you're picking up skill sets and experiences. It's the university of life.

Take a course in good water and air; and in the eternal youth of Nature you may renew your own. Go quietly, alone; no harm will befall you.

The system of volunteerism is divisive. It pits one charity against the others for the charity dollar.

I just change with the times. I really don't have a say in what's going on. Music was here before me.

The mind is very powerful. Therefore, it requires firm guidance. A powerful jet plane needs a good pilot; the pilot of your mind should be the wisdom that understands its nature.

Now, I don't mind making fun of those preachers who steal money from people, they kind of deserve it.

Despotic rules are attempting to deprive women of their rights.

We were both in love with him. I fell out of love with him, but he didn't.