Surfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things unseen — all of these make surfing very special

Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.

I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind.

The energy that moves across the ocean connects all surfers who ride it.

One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other — stoke . One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.

All surfers are joined by one ocean.

Turn your adversity into building blocks for the palace of your dreams.

I can’t wait for the day when we’ll never have to say ‘goodbye’ to each other again.

She drank in all their compliments and soon she was full of herself.

You can see a rose both in two ways. First, through its beautiful petals. The other, through its thorns

It so happens that I never talk about race. I do not know what race is.

How do you kill a vampire?"-Mac "Hope hes not"-Barrons

I'm not in the Lifetime Achievement area yet-I'm still battling it out in the trenches.

My first day as a woman and I am already having hot flushes

Cynicism and naivety lie cheek by jowl in the American imagination; if the United States is one of the most venal nations on Earth, it is also one of the most earnestly idealistic.