The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.

God's hand never slips.

There's such a sense of theatre in getting glammed up; it's like putting on a play or short film.

If you go into a relationship expecting someone else to fill you up, you're doomed right off.

The world grows more enlightened. Knowledge is more equally diffused.

Practically everyone is going to have a general purpose computer in their pocket, it's so easy to underestimate that, that has got to be the really, really big one.

Sometimes I think, 'To hell with acting' and then I realize I could be working at a shoe shop. Acting is much cooler.

Whenever a big white man picks up a banjo, my cheeks tighten.

The gates made of light swing open. You see in.

I did stand-up. I loved George Carlin and Steve Martin.

Just because you're good at something, does that mean you're born to do it?