The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

When you think of the condition the world is in now you sometimes wish that Noah had missed the boat.

If you are benefiting more than those you serve, you are no longer serving.

The sixth gift is Joy. May it keep your heart open and filled with light.

Religion is an irrational construct.

I am fine, though it is hard to think of what kind of work to make at this point, other than decorative, escapist or abstract. I suppose I'll explore one or all of these things.

Perhaps we've invented conspiracies for our own psychic well-being, to heal ourselves.

Gather quickly Out of darkness All the songs you know And throw them at the sun Before they melt Like snow.

Scholars look for final truths they will never find. Creative writers concern themselves with possibilities that are always there to the receptive.

Oh, how I wish that Orwell were still alive, so that I could read his comments on contemporary events!

It's not too far; it just seems like it is.