There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

A gunslinger knows pride, that invisible bone that keeps the neck stiff.

Don't criticize me because of what I write, because for all you know, I could be right!

Behind every closed door might wait a thief of minds and a collector of souls.

In the dark morning silence, I placed a gun to her head. She wore red dresses, but now she lay dead.

If you get an audition and you're out of work, you just say, "I've gotta go on this."

The second attention is the occult side of the being. It is the ability to manipulate others, be it for good or ill intent.

All my life, I've been frightened at the moment I sit down to write.

Neither my life of luxury in the palace -nor- my life as ascetic in the forest were ways to enlightenment.

Go and try to disprove death. Death will disprove you, and that's all!

Genius is a promontory jutting out into the infinite.