This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

Only those who spend much time in HIs presence will ever become like Him.

A very wise person once told me marriage is hard, that you have to keep fighting for it everyday.

Open confession of dictatorship is far less dangerous than sham democracy. One can defend oneself against the former

Don't be reluctant to give of yourself generously, it's the mark of caring and compassion and personal greatness.

I would say that the off-frame effect in photography results from a singular and definitive cutting-off which figures castration and is figured by the click of the shutter.

Apart from anything else, I find boots are too hot except in wintry weather. At home I usually wear a sweater, shirt and slacks.

Freedom is not doing what you want when you want. Freedom is the power to do what has to be done when it needs to be done.

Time doesn't seem to pass here: it just is.

If there's one thing I can't bear, it's people who are wise during the event.

Eleanor was right. She never looked nice. She looked like art, and art wasn't supposed to look nice; it was supposed to make you feel something.