Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

I am sure that the reason why I wept and stormed as if I had gone off my head was that the combination of physical exhaustion and my unhappiness had made me hate and resent everything.

Summer brings sunshine, warm and flowering.

Nothing on 'Relapse' and very little on 'Recovery' was produced by me.

She took my hand and pulled me after her, her shoulders giving off a sweet peppermint concoction that the bodies of young women sometimes produce to make my life more difficult.

That amid our highest civilization men faint and die with want is not due to the niggardliness of nature, but to the injustice of man.

Courage isn't just a matter of not being frightened, you know. It's being afraid and doing what you have to do anyway.

You say, "But He has not answered." He has, He is so near to you that His silence is the answer. His silence is big with terrific meaning that you cannot understand yet, but presently you will.

What the tender and poetic youth dreams to-day, and conjures up with inarticulate speech, is to-morrow the vociferated result of public opinion, and the day after is the character of nations.

I've worked all my life to shed myself of any character.

The angel fetched Peter out of prison, but it was prayer that fetched the angel.